Development of natural cosmetic emulsion using the by-product of Lecythis pisonis seed.

Natural products and their biological activities are currently a subject of great interest to the industrial and scientific sector, due to society's awareness of the proper use of biodiversity and economic and sustainability. To promote the sustainable use of biomass the extract of the by-product of the shell seed of Lecythis pisonis was applied to develop a natural cosmetic emulsion. To ensure safety for its topical use the cytotoxic activity of its crude extract was evaluated by the colorimetric method of 3- bromide (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium, MTT, in cell culture of fibroblasts L929, human keratinocytes HaCat, and human endothelium EA.hy926 cell lines. The triplicate of the cosmetic formulation containing the extract was obtained regarding stability according to the procedures of the Brazilian Health Regulatory Agency (Anvisa). The irritability tests were performed using alternative methods, in vitro, chorioallantoic membrane assay (HET-CAM and CAM-TBS), and hemolysis test (RBC). The crude extract was not cytotoxic, IC50 index >780 mg/mL. The preservative system was effective against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans, and Aspergillus niger. The emulsion was classified as non-irritable. The crude extract of the by-product of sapucaia seeds can be incorporated into a natural emulsion, safe for topical use.

Safety Assessment of Alkane Diols as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 10 alkane diol ingredients as used in cosmetics. The alkane diols are structurally related to each other as small diols, and most are reported to function in cosmetics as solvents. The Panel reviewed the relevant data for these ingredients, and concluded that seven alkane diols are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment, but that the available data are insufficient to make a determination of safety for three ingredients, namely 1,4-Butanediol, 2,3-Butanediol, and Octanediol.

Safety Assessment of Zinc Salts as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 27 inorganic and organometallic zinc salts as used in cosmetic formulations; these salts are specifically of the 2+ (II) oxidation state cation of zinc. These ingredients included in this report have various reported functions in cosmetics, including hair conditioning agents, skin conditioning agents, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, preservatives, oral care agents, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, and viscosity increasing agents. The Panel reviewed the relevant data for these ingredients, and concluded that these 27 ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating.

Detailed aggregate exposure analysis shows that exposure to fragrance ingredients in consumer products is low: Many orders of magnitude below thresholds of concern.

The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) and Creme Global Cremeglobal.com partnered to develop an aggregate exposure model for fragrance ingredients. The model provides a realistic estimate of the total exposure of fragrance ingredients to individuals across a population. The Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TTC) and Dermal Sensitization Threshold (DST) were used to demonstrate the magnitude of low exposure to fragrance materials. The total chronic systemic, inhalation, and dermal 95th percentile exposures on approximately 3000 fragrance ingredients in RIFM's inventory were compared to their respective TTC or DST. Additionally, representative fragrance ingredients were randomly selected and analyzed for exposure distribution by product type (i.e., cosmetic/personal care, household care, oral care, and air care) and route of exposure. It was found that 76 % of fragrance ingredients fall below their respective TTC limits when compared to 95th percentile systemic exposure, while 99 % are below inhalation TTC limits. The lowest 95th percentile aggregate exposure by product type was from household care products, then air care, and oral care products. The highest exposure was from personal care/cosmetic products. The volume of use for most fragrance ingredients (63 %) was <1 metric ton, estimating that environmental exposure to fragrance ingredients is likely low.

Safety Assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 13 Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as skin and hair conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing similar constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Prioritization of chemicals in personal care products based on persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT) potential: An Indian perspective.

Numerous organic ingredients present in Personal care products (PCPs) are being detected in sewage which has a high potential to impact the environment. These compounds are called as Emerging contaminants (ECs) or Contaminants of emerging concern. However, the information on the source and occurrence of ECs present in PCPs is very minimal. Specifically, information on the persistence (P), bioaccumulation (B) and toxicity (T) is very scarce. The determination of PBT properties is a complex task given the magnitude of chemicals, thus it is necessary to have a tool to quickly screen and prioritize the most important compounds. Estimation Program Interface (EPI) Suite™ is one such tool authorized by United States Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA) for screening purposes. In the present study, several organic compounds present in the PCPs viz. body lotion, sunscreens, moisturizers, hair dyes, and some hair care products were identified and their PBT property was estimated. The results from the study indicate that the order of increasing occurrence of PBT chemicals is sunscreens > moisturizers > body lotion > hair care products > hair dyes. The prioritized compounds were given rank 1 (maximum concern) to rank 4 (minimum concern). From the results, the compounds octocrylene in sunscreens and butylphenyl methylpropional in body lotions were prioritized as Rank 1.

Safety Assessment of Ginkgo biloba-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 10 Ginkgo biloba-derived ingredients, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as skin conditioning agents or antioxidants. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. The Panel was concerned about the presence of ginkgolic acid in cosmetics. Industry should use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities. The Panel concluded that 5 Ginkgo biloba leaf-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-sensitizing; data are insufficient to determine the safety of the remaining 5 ingredients under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

Towards Precision Ecotoxicology: Leveraging Evolutionary Conservation of Pharmaceutical and Personal Care Product Targets to Understand Adverse Outcomes Across Species and Life Stages.

Translation of environmental science to the practice aims to protect biodiversity and ecosystem services, and our future ability to do so relies on the development of a precision ecotoxicology approach wherein we leverage the genetics and informatics of species to better understand and manage the risks of global pollution. A little over a decade ago, a workshop focusing on the risks of pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) in the environment identified a priority research question, "What can be learned about the evolutionary conservation of PPCP targets across species and life stages in the context of potential adverse outcomes and effects?" We review the activities in this area over the past decade, consider prospects of more recent developments, and identify future research needs to develop next-generation approaches for PPCPs and other global chemicals and waste challenges. Environ Toxicol Chem 2024;43:526-536. © 2023 SETAC. This article has been contributed to by U.S. Government employees and their work is in the public domain in the USA.

Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products in the Aquatic Environment: How Can Regions at Risk be Identified in the Future?

Pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) are an indispensable component of a healthy society. However, they are well-established environmental contaminants, and many can elicit biological disruption in exposed organisms. It is now a decade since the landmark review covering the top 20 questions on PPCPs in the environment (Boxall et al., 2012). In the present study we discuss key research priorities for the next 10 years with a focus on how regions where PPCPs pose the greatest risk to environmental and human health, either now or in the future, can be identified. Specifically, we discuss why this problem is of importance and review our current understanding of PPCPs in the aquatic environment. Foci include PPCP occurrence and what drives their environmental emission as well as our ability to both quantify and model their distribution. We highlight critical areas for future research including the involvement of citizen science for environmental monitoring and using modeling techniques to bridge the gap between research capacity and needs. Because prioritization of regions in need of environmental monitoring is needed to assess future/current risks, we also propose four criteria with which this may be achieved. By applying these criteria to available monitoring data, we narrow the focus on where monitoring efforts for PPCPs are most urgent. Specifically, we highlight 19 cities across Africa, Central America, the Caribbean, and Asia as priorities for future environmental monitoring and risk characterization and define four priority research questions for the next 10 years. Environ Toxicol Chem 2024;43:575-588. © 2023 The Authors. Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry published by Wiley Periodicals LLC on behalf of SETAC.

Transcriptomic profiles of brains in juvenile Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua) exposed to pharmaceuticals and personal care products from a wastewater treatment plant discharge.

Pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) are frequently detected in marine environments, posing a threat to aquatic organisms. Our previous research demonstrated the occurrence of neuroactive compounds in effluent and sediments from a wastewater treatment plant (WWTP) in a fjord North of Stavanger, the fourth-largest city in Norway. To better understand the influence of PPCP mixtures on fish, Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua) were caged for one month in 3 locations: site 1 (reference), site 2 (WWTP discharge), and site 3 (6.7 km west of discharge). Transcriptomic profiling was conducted in the brains of exposed fish and detection of PPCPs in WWTP effluent and muscle fillets were determined. Caffeine (47.8 ng/L), benzotriazole (10.9 ng/L), N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide (DEET) (5.6 ng/L), methyl-1H-benzotriazole (5.5 ng/L), trimethoprim (3.4 ng/L), carbamazepine (2.1 ng/L), and nortriptyline (0.4 ng/L) were detected in the WWTP effluent. Octocrylene concentrations were observed in muscle tissue at all sites and ranged from 53 to 193 ng/g. Nervous system function and endocrine system disorders were the top enriched disease and function pathways predicted in male and female fish at site 2, with the top shared canonical pathways involved with estrogen receptor and Sirtuin signaling. At the discharge site, predicted disease and functional responses in female brains were involved in cellular assembly, organization, and function, tissue development, and nervous system development, whereas male brains were involved in connective tissue development, function, and disorders, nervous system development and function, and neurological disease. The top shared canonical pathways in females and males were involved in fatty acid activation and tight junction signaling. This study suggests that pseudopersistent, chronic exposure of native juvenile Atlantic cod from this ecosystem to PPCPs may alter neuroendocrine and neuron development.

Safety Assessment of Hops as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract (reported functions include antimicrobial agent and hair conditioning agent) and Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil (reported function is fragrance). The Panel reviewed the relevant data related to these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. For these ingredients, the Panel was concerned about the presence of 8-prenylnaringenin, ß-myrcene, and quercetin in cosmetics, which could result in estrogenic effects, dermal irritation, and genotoxicity, respectively. Industry should use current good manufacturing practices to limit impurities and constituents of concern. The Panel concluded that Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract and Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Safety Assessment of Alkyl Sultaines as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 13 alkyl sultaines, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as antistatic agents, surfactants, and skin and hair conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. The Panel noted gaps in the available safety data for some of the alkyl sultaines in this safety assessment; the available data on some of the ingredients are sufficient, however, and can be read across to support the safety of other members of the group. The Panel concluded that these alkyl sultaines are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Adenosine as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Adenosine, Adenosine Phosphate, Adenosine Triphosphate, Disodium Adenosine Phosphate, and Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate. These ingredients are reported to function in cosmetics as skin-conditioning agents - miscellaneous. The Panel considered the available data and concluded that the five adenosine ingredients reviewed in this report are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Trialkyl Trimellitates as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 5 trialkyl trimellitates. These ingredients, which are all structurally related as alkyl esters of trimellitic acid, are reported to function in cosmetics as skin conditioning agents; 2 of the ingredients are also reported to function in cosmetics as plasticizers. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients, and concluded that the trialkyl trimellitates are safe in the current practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-irritating.

A botanical reference set illustrating a weight of evidence approach for skin sensitization risk assessment.

Recent years have seen an increase in the use of botanicals and natural substances (BNS) in consumer products such as cosmetics and household care products. Most work conducted to date to assess botanicals for human safety has focused their use as dietary supplements and thus on systemic toxicity. However, the induction of skin sensitization is a possible adverse effect of natural products in particular those that come into skin contact, especially for cosmetics that remain on the skin and are not rinsed off following use. Assessments of BNS ingredients are often challenging for a number of reasons: the BNS are complex mixtures that can be of mostly unknown composition; the composition can be highly variable even within the same plant species and dependent on how processed; the physical form of the BNS raw material can vary from a highly concentrated powdered extract to a liquid extract containing only a small percentage of the BNS; testing of the BNS raw materials in New Approach Methods (NAM) has uncertainty as these methods are often not developed or validated for complex mixtures. In this study, a reference set of 14 selected BNS which span the range of skin sensitization potential was complied. These data were used in a Weight of Evidence (WoE) approach to evaluate their skin sensitization potential with each of the data rich BNS being classified as either having strong evidence of inducing skin sensitization based on human topical use history, animal data, clinical data, composition data and NAM data, or having some but more limited (weak) evidence of inducing skin sensitization, or having strong evidence of no skin sensitization potential. When available data have sufficient potency related information, sensitization potency assessment is also provided based on WoE, classifying these BNS as either strong, moderate, or weak sensitizers, or non-sensitizers. An outline for a BNS skin sensitization risk assessment framework is proposed starting with exposure-based waiving and WoE assessment for higher exposures. In addition to demonstrating the application of the WoE approach, the reference set presented here provides a set of 'data rich' botanicals which cover a range of sensitization potencies that could be used for evaluating existing test methods or aid in the development of new predictive models for skin sensitization.

Safety Assessment of Polyfluorinated Polymers as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 12 polyfluorinated polymers in cosmetic products; most of these ingredients have the reported function of film former in common. However, PTFE, the only ingredient that is reported as currently used in cosmetics, functions as a bulking agent and slip modifier, but not as a film former. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations, and concluded that PTFE and Hexafluoropropylene/Tetrafluoroethylene Copolymer are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment; the data are insufficient to determine the safety of the 4 fluorinated-side-chain polymers and 6 fluorinated polyethers.

Combining a microphysiological system of three organ equivalents and transcriptomics to assess toxicological endpoints for cosmetic ingredients.

Animal testing for cosmetic ingredients and final products has been banned in Europe and is gaining legal force worldwide. However, the need for reliable testing methodologies remains for safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients. While new approach methodologies exist for many toxicological endpoints, some complex ones lack appropriate testing methods. Microphysiological systems (MPSs) have emerged as a promising tool to address this gap in pre-clinical testing, offering higher predictivity compared to animal models due to the phylogenetic distance between humans and animals. Moreover, they provide a more physiological approach than traditional in vitro testing by mimicking interconnections between different culture compartments as seen in complex organisms. This study presents a three-organ microfluidic MPS comprising skin, liver, and intestine equivalents. Combining this model with gene expression analysis, we evaluated toxicological endpoints of chemicals, demonstrating its potential for diverse applications. Our findings highlight the MPS model as a reliable and ethical method to be applied in an integrated approach for safety assessment in the cosmetic industry. It offers a promising strategy to evaluate toxicological endpoints for cosmetic ingredients and other chemicals, supporting the elimination of animal testing while ensuring consumer safety.

Methacrylate Ester Monomers.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed newly available studies since their original assessment in 2005, along with updated information regarding product types and concentrations of use, and confirmed that these 22 methacrylate ester monomers are safe as used in nail enhancement products in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report, when skin contact is avoided.

Margin of exposure to free formaldehyde in personal care products containing formaldehyde-donor preservatives: Evidence for consumer safety.

Formaldehyde has been classified as carcinogenic to humans by International Agency for Research on Cancer and found in personal care (PC) products containing formaldehyde-donor (FD) preservatives. However, the cancer risk associated with the use of FD-containing PC products has not been well established. Our study provides the quantitative cancer risk assessment of formaldehyde in FD-containing PC products. The carbon-13 nuclear magnetic resonance (13C-NMR) spectroscopy was used in this risk assessment to provide reliable exposure information to formaldehyde in PC products and aqueous solutions containing sodium hydroxymethylglycinate. The risk assessment was conducted using the margin of exposure (MOE) approach with benchmark doses (BMDs) for 10% effect. For hemolymphoreticular neoplasias in male rats, a BMD of 28.03 mg/kg/day and a BMD lower confidence limit (BMDL) of 2.52 mg/kg/day were calculated from available long-term animal experiments. The worst-case consumer exposure to formaldehyde from FD-containing PC products was 0.007 µg/kg/day. Comparing the consumer exposure with BMDL, the resulting MOE was 360,000 for the worst-case scenario. The consumer exposure to formaldehyde (0.007 µg/kg/day) from using FD-containing PC products represents less than 1.0 × 10-6 % of background level endogenous formaldehyde (878-1310 mg/kg/day). The cancer risk from formaldehyde to consumers using FD-containing PC products is negligible.

Amended Safety Assessment of Mentha piperita (Peppermint)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of M piperita (peppermint)-derived ingredients. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituent(s) of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that M piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Extract, Leaf, and leaf-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing, and that the available data are insufficient for determining that M piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, M piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Water, and M piperita (Peppermint) Meristem Cell Culture are safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.